Adventure and high mountains

Right now I am enjoying the Danish “summer” and struggling to get back in super shape ... over the next many months would I be staying in Nepal. From the start of October to early January, I will guide two groups around Khumbu Valley - Everest Base Camp trek and show them some of my favorite places! One of the groups is a extended edition of the BC trek. We will do a crossing of the three 5000 m mountain pass: Kongma La (5,534 m), Cho La (5,345 m) and Renjo La (5,415 m) and climb some of the small trekking peaks.
Check out these links for more info and registration
http://www.topas.dk/pages/turbeskrivelse-everest-base-camp-tre-spektakulaere-bjergpas.html

http://www.topas.dk/pages/Turbeskrivelse-Nepal---Everest-Basecamp-.html
Between the two departures / jobs, I have about a month to my own adventures. The plan is to go to Ama Dablam (6856m) and make a “quick” alpine ascent. The acclimatization will I get through the BC trek and maybe a few small ascents along the way. The plan is then to move myself and my gear further into the mountains. I have a strong wish to go to some more isolated area and try to make a climb there. More about that later;)

Few days after my return from Nepal, I proceed to Argentina where I once again will guide on Aconcagua (6962m). This time I have two ascents - the first where I only guide one client and shortly after a group of around 12 to 14 clients. It is really going to be hard, since the first ascent only have a timeframe of 14 days (Denmark - Argentina - Denmark) well ... I'm ready and I will do everything possible to make this little project successful.

2011 Summit team at Aconcagua Base Camp.
Photo by Jakob Urth

Check out these links for more info and registration
http://www.topas.dk/pages/Turbeskrivelse-Argentina---Aconcagua-bestigning.html

http://www.topas.dk/pages/turbeskrivelse-argentina-aconcagua-bestigning-inkl-formoeder-og-deltagelse-af-chris-macdonald.html

well ...... then I've got big plans for a expedition next spring in Nepal. This means .......... I want to go alone and try again to make an ascent of a 8000m mountain without using artificial oxygen ...... more about this project soon;)

guess a mountain?

 my beloved down suit from The North Face at 7200m on Cho Oyu

Next fall (2012) it will be something completely new. I will guide the "Seven Summits" mountain Carstensz Pyramid on the island of Papua in Indonesia. It will truly be an adventure and I look forward to visit this amazing place and culture.
Check out this link for more info and registration.
http://www.topas.dk//pages/turbeskrivelse-indonesien-papua-ekspedition-til-carstensz-pyramide.html

The picture to the left is an ad from Topas Travel and if everything goes to plan I will guide all these fantastic trips during this and next year.
well ... it makes me happy.

K2 SUMMITS! Gerlinde bags the first female No-O2 14x8000ers ascent

No less than fantastic!.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has written mountaineer history whit her ascent of K2. She has really proved her strength and determination for the project - and her faith in own abilities.

Photo from readyfornature.com

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner just summited K2 and becomes the first female to complete the first NO-O2 14x8000ers ascent. The Austrian climber topped-out at 18.18h, local time. 

On her website her team posted an update a few hours ago.http://www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at/en/neuigkeiten/
"Brief Update, 24 August 2011 – 10am – Team still descending
-At midnight last night, Gerlinde, and a little later also Darek, reached Camp IV at 8,000m. Vassily and Maxut stayed the night at their bivouac at 8,300m, from where they left at 7am. They have now almost reached Camp IV.
Today, they are planning to descend to Camp I at 5,300m, where they will spend one last night at the foot of the North Pillar before they will go down to our deposit camp tomorrow. I am planning to go up and meet them there.
From there, it will probably take another three hours to carry our heavy gear across the dry K2 glacier to our base camp, which Tommy and I have almost completely dismantled.
Once at base camp, we will pack up our last belongings and go down to the Chinese base camp (about 3 ½ hours), where our camel herders are already waiting for us.
These are our preliminary plans, however, the four of them have to get down safely first. We wish them all the necessary strength and concentration, which they certainly need to manage the last 2,500m of their descent.
I will be in touch again as soon as Gerlinde, Maxut, Vassiliy and Darek have arrived at Camp I.
Ralf Dujmovits from K2 base camp"

Photo from peakfriends.de

After two months on the lonely north face of K2, the international team comprising Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany), Maxut Zhumayev (Kazakhstan), Vassiliy Pivtsov (Kazakhstan), Darek Zaluski (Poland) and Tommy Heinrich (Argentina) has persevered, worked perfectly coordinated and, finally, succeeded.

K2 north pillar Tuesday morning update: To the summit!

http://www.explorersweb.com  Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Darek Zaluski, Vassiliy Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev have left their bivouac at 8,300m on K2 north pillar today at 1:30 am, local time, towards the summit.

"An icy, starry night welcomed the climbers as they departed," Ralf Dujmovits reported from BC. "Cold made things tough since, although the slope above the bivouac place is "only" 45 degrees, most of the time they have to climb on their crampons' front points, which restricts blood flow and, at -25 ° , leads to to icy feet."

K2 north pillar upper slopes. Close-up on the left shows the climbers bivouac at 8,300m.
Image by Ralf Dujmovits,

Gerlinde, Max, Vassiliy and Darek are also fighting wet boots and general exhaustion after over two months on the hill. Nevertheless, at 07:30 clock they were on the go and making good progress, according to Ralf.

Gerlinde has checked in on the radio from 8,400m at 11.30am, local time. The team was having a though time due to bitter cold, but hoped for the sun to hit the face soon, and therefore felt confident. Check for further updates later to day...I realy hope that Gerlinde will summit this time and get back safe! Take care up there.....

Resolute Bay crash - Arctic skiers Base Camp

 A chartered First Air 737 passenger jet crashed Saturday near Resolute Bay, killing 12 people and injuring three. The flight was not connected to military activities in the area and seems to have carried staff and workers related to South Camp Inn.

The Danish media(http://nyhederne.tv2.dk/article.php/id-42808216%3Apassagerfly-styrtet-ned-i-canada.html?rss ) described the crash and aircraft like this : "Passenger aircraft Boeing 737 had a total of 15 people on board including four crew members when it crashed in the Arctic territory of Nunavut, which lies west of Greenland"

Image by Vincent Desrosiers/CBC , www.cbc.ca

GlobeAndMail news reported that Aziz (Ozzie) Kheraj had two granddaughters, 6 and 7 years old sisters Cheyenne and Gabrielle Eckalook onboard. Gabrielle survived.
Ozzie and his Resolute Bay South Camp Inn are known to most Arctic skiers as the final Base Camp before they are flown to the Canadian edge of the ice. This is where they sort through their sleds and enjoy their last comforts such as warm beds and prepared meals before their months-long expeditions.

The plane reportedly crashed into a hill near Resolute and was shattered. Cause of the crash is under investigation. Released names of victims include Arctic researcher Marty Bergmann and South Camp Inn cook Randy Reid. The three survivors include a 48-year-old man, a 23-year-old woman and the seven-year-old girl.

K2 -

My friend and US-based mountaineer Rob Springer is back from a few months in Pakistan! He tried to climb what is known as a "double". He wanted to acclimatize on Broad Peak, before moving his gear and focus on K2. Broad Peak is the 12th Highest Mountain in the world, but it is Safer and less steep than K2. By acclimatize on Broad Peak and then simply make a quick attempt two summit K2, limiting the time on the more dangerous mountain!

Photo by Rob Springer - K2

Rob showed with this expedition that he has the strength and courage on large projects. Which I have greatest respect. He also showed that when it all gets too much ... he takes the big decision and turns. It takes courage! He has proven he has what it takes and I know he will come back for more. Attempt to climb K2 is a great thing… and some think that coming home and be able tell is a even  bigger thing!!

 See you out there ...

Africa one more time!

Well, I'm back after a month in Tanzania - Africa with two ascents of Kilimanjaro and  some spectacular safari. Like the last time I was there I worked for Topas Travel. And with these ascents I've seen the summit of Africa 7 – 8  times. It is still fantastic!
Check www.topas.dk for more info about the trip and the next departure. Believe me ... it's one of the best trips I guide and I enjoy every second of it.