Mar 20, 2012

My next project - Lhotse 8516m

Tomorrow starts another Himalayan adventure!

In the next 24 days, I will guide a group of trekkers to Everest BC and back to Kathmandu. A beautiful and spectacular trip which offers many highlights.   really enjoy this area and have the opportunity to show others this unique place.
I do it also as a training and acclimatization before the climbing on Lhotse. excellent preparation.

The Lhotse project is a dream which has long been in my mind - now I am going.
I am leaving Kathmandu around the 13/4 and will hit BC around the 21/4
From there, anything can happen. I have approx. 5 weeks on the mountain. This time I will again try to make the climb without the use of artificial o2 (oxygen bottle) I want to climb as clean as possible! It also means that I do not want to use support on the mountain - porter and so on. I what to climb this beautiful mountain as light as possible. It deserves it.

This time I will be on the mountain with a climbing partner - If everything goes as planned, I will meet my new partner in BC. More about him before I leave Kathmandu.


You can follow me and the project on www.topas.dk in a week or so from now! There will be updates and photos from the expedition.

 

Mar 18, 2012

Lost in the mountains - R.I.P

All hope for Gerfried, Nisar and Cedric is over! There are now lost forever on the beautiful and steep flanks of the winter cold G1 -  so sad and painful.
My thoughts are with their family and friends.Please follow the story on http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/  .

Mar 12, 2012

Gerfried Goschl and team - missing on G1

Gerfried Goschl, Cedric Hahlen and Nisar Hussain - are missing since Friday.

Right Now on G1 - all the remaining teams are trying to help.

"Hopes are anyway scarce, since no one knowns for sure on which side of the mountain the missing climbers are. Last time the missing climbers were seen, they were approaching the summit from the peak's south side. Once on top, the trio planned to traverse down the normal route on the north side. There's been neither sat-phone or radio contact.
G1 from BC. Photo by Jakob Urth - 2008
I really hope for the best - you are all in my prayers.
Adam Bielecki on winter GI summit - Photo by:Adam Bielecki

Alex Txikon, who had also hoped to join the searching team, has finally remained in BC, nursing frostbitten toes. Summiteers Janusz and Adam, and fellow Polish Tamara Stys, are also sustaining frostbites".   (tekst from www.explorersweb.com/)



Not all is bad......The Polish team are back from the summit. 
The brave and incredible strong Polish team were the first to climb G1 -  in winter!!!
Congratulations. A achievement which can only admire and inspire.
However, there is no time to celebrate the great achievement - all trying to find the lost climbers and not at least explain what happened!!
 

Mar 7, 2012

G1 - Winter summit push startet

Gerfried Goschl's team and the Poles are now on there way to the summit.
Both winter GI teams are in C1, hoping to reach the top on Thursday. Weather forecasts are somber though: temperatures dropped down to -43ÂșC and the wind blew stronger than forecasted today. Although relatively milder winds (40-50km/h) are expected on summit day, they'll pick again while climbers are on descent. It seems far from a perfect summit window, but the climbers may have no other. As the Poles explained, further hurricanes are expected to hit the mountain next week!!!
This is not a climb for sissies. http://www.gerfriedgoeschl.at
Camp one, on the new route targetted by Gerfried Goschl's team.
Photo by: Gerfried Goschl.