Khan Tengri North Face direct

 Kazakh climbers Vaso Pivtsov, Alex Sofrygin and Ildar Gabassov just successfully climbed a very difficult direct line on the North Face of Khan Tengri.

The 3 km steep line presents one of the most difficult walls in our region, and, probably, in the world of big walls overall.The last successful climb of the wall was made in 2005, 7 years ago. All other attempts since then have failed.
This is what climbing is all about....

New lectures

In partnership with one of my sponsors - I now offer an evening of adventure, high activity and a lot of stories from many years of traveling 
Sorry - Danish only :)

Higher - further - faster
Dobbeltforedrag om at sætte sig mål hvor overliggeren er sat højt - og hvordan man når dem!

Tirsdag den 4. september 2012 kl. 17.45
Horsens Håndværkerforening, Allegade 16, 8700 Horsens

FreeSports.dk indbyder hermed, sammen med de andre butikker under amaster Sport, til en spændende aften i selskab med to sportsudøvere, som begge bevæger sig på grænsen af det ekstreme. Deres sportsgrene er vidt forskellige, men de personlige målsætninger, træningen og viljen til at gennemføre deres forehavende er helt sammenlignelige ...det handler om at sætte sig et mål og så gå målrettet efter det. Tag vennerne med til en spændende aften!


Jakob Urth er en af Danmarks mest erfarne bjergbestigere og ekspeditionsledere som har være på bjerge overalt i verden. Han lever og ånder for ekspeditioner til de mest ufremkommelige bjerge, har gennemført et utal af bestigninger gennem tiderne og arbejder sideløbende som ekspeditionsleder for Topas Travel. Han vil under arrangementet fortælle om træningen, planlægningen, udstyret der skal til og krydre foredraget med billeder og fortællinger fra sine ekspeditioner. Jakob fortæller levende om sine oplevelser og det bliver ikke kedeligt! Læs evt. mere om Jakob her >>

Thomas Mortensen har dyrket triathlon gennem mange år og er til dagligt idrætslærer og personlig træner. Han er stadig "en glad amatør" men samtidig en meget erfaren triathlet, som har været med i mange af de store konkurrencer. Han er deltager i Ironman Hawaii 2012 og foredraget vil omhandle kvalificeringen, træningen, planlægningen, udfordringerne og forventningerne i forbindelse med den ultimative Ironman. Thomas er en god fortæller og brænder for sin sport - det vil helt sikkert blive spændende at høre ham. Læs evt. mere om Thomas Mortensen her >>

Polish climbers do it again - K2 Summit !

28 people summited K2 on July 31st!
Out of the 28 trailblazers only 4 were without oxygen:
Polish Adam Bielecki and Iranian Azim Ghaychesaz at 10.30 am, followed by Austrian Christian Stangl and Spanish Oscar Cadiach at 5 pm. The next day Slovak Peter Hamor and Czech Pavel Bem climbed K2 without 02 as well.

The result at this point: 30 people climbed K2 in 2012 including 6 without oxygen!!

Adam on Top of K2. Photo by:himountain.pl

You might recall Polish Adam Bielecki (28) from this past March when he and Janusz Golab bagged the first winter climb on GI (Hidden Peak) in an expedition led by Artur Hajzer. He was also with Artur's Polish team who summited Makalu last year, an achievement followed by a complicated descent in very tough conditions. An accomplished climber who soloed Khan Tengri, Adam will join the Polish Alpine Association's attempt to climb Broad Peak this upcoming winter.
This is going to be so cool and I think we will se the first winter climb on BP...done by this these guys!
A little bonus,  my climbing partner (on Lhotse) Tomasz Kobielski hope to participate in the expedition. With Tomasz on the team - their make the strongest team for a cold and long winter in BP

8000+…… Still the next project

This spring I was back in the great Himalayas on a Lhotse Expeditions.
I tried to make it to the summit without the use of O2 and in alpin style, but other things make me turn back before the summit this time! At the time there was nothing else to do – Right now I feel like I have to come back and do the job. I was very strong and I know I will come back even stronger. Lhotse is one of the most beautiful mountains I ever climb on, and next time I hope whether, ice, family….and the mountain will be with me.
Until then – here goes some of my photos from other 8000+ mountain. Gasherbrum 2 in Pakistan and Cho Oyu in Tibet.

Summit of Gasherbrum 2 - 1/8 2008

On the way to C3







                                

Summitday on G2 1/8 2008





Mt. Kinabalu - Hard Routes

Yuji Hirayama, Daniel Woods, James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini have just returned from their expedition to Mt. Kinabalu (4095m) in Borneo, Malaysia. The plan for their expedition was to establish some of the hardest high altitude sport routes in the world, and thanks to the incredible weather that allowed the team to climb almost every day, they had a very productive time! The team spent the last month living close to the summit of the magnificent mountain, making each day the one-hour hike towards the summit plateau to climb, bolt and explore. They came back with a fine selection of routes that each represents the individual styles and strengths of its creator. The team opened over 20 new routes up to Fr 9a+.

Highlights include:
Yuji Hirayama - Pogulian Do Koduduo Fr 9a and Metis 120m 5-pitch E6 6b / 5.12r
James Pearson – Excalibur Fr 8c+ and a flash of Alanga 120m 3-pitch Fr 8b
Caroline Ciavaldini – Apuri Manan Fr 8b and Alanga 120m 3-pitch Fr 8b
Daniel Woods – Tinipi Fr 9a+ and Enter The Void Fr 8c

Cool stuff............ ;)