Terrible news from Shishapangma

On the beautiful and 8027 m high mountain Shishapangma in Tibet, has there early today (25.09) been a terrible accident. An avalanche has hit three climbers and two presumed dead.

It makes me sincerely sad that this should happen again. Three strong climbers and as part of a five man group that was at the season's first real summitattempt. Strong and very experienced climbers who teame/partnership with Uli sterk was hit by a large avalanche only 100 m below the summit.
From there expedition site: (Double8)
"Double 8 team - Andrea Zambaldi, Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag - was on a mission to speed climb two eight-thousanders, Shishapangma and Cho Oyu, within a week. On their first mountain, Shishapangma, they had been battling difficult conditions since past few weeks. Yesterday, they were approaching the summit, when an avalanche hit the team. Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag were buried under the snow and are still missing.

Benedikt Bohm, Sebastian Haag and Andrea Zambaldi
courtesy Double 8 Expedition, SOURCE

A week ago, excessive snow forced the three climbers to retreat from 7700m. However, on September 23rd, they launched their second (and final) summit-bid on the mountain. This time, they were also joined by Swiss Ueli Steck  and German Martin Maier.
 
As per information from Base Camp, Benedikt Boehm and Ueli Steck started the “speed ascent” from ABC (5600m) at 04:30PM (Nepalese time) on September 23rd. They reached C1 (6300m) at around 08:00PM and as planned, Sebastian Haag joined them from there.
 
While the three climbers continued their ascent from C1, two more members Martin Maier and Andrea Zambaldi who were in C2 at that time, also started climbing up. The two groups met each other just below C3 at around 01:00 AM (September 24th). They all arrived at C3 (7100m) at 2:00AM. At 06:50AM, it’s said that the team was merely 100m below summit and were hoping to be at the top by 08:00AM.
 
The climbers have been communicating about difficult and dangerous conditions on the mountain throughout the ascent. Benedikt Boehm’s message from 7700m read, “the deep, windblown snow is killing us,” and from 7850m he said, “fighting, fighting, fighting. Heaps of snow and high risk of avalanche … Frustrating!!”
 
Unfortunately, the danger materialized in disaster when the climbers were at 7900m. An avalanche swept Zambaldi, Haag and Maier 600m down, 'over steep glaciers, into another section of the mountain'. Steck and Boehm immediately asked for help from BC and headed down to avalanche zone for a possible search and rescue operation. It’s reported that despite trying for four hours, they couldn’t reach there, “there was no access to the avalanche zone.”

Jakob Urth on Shisha in bad weather

 
However, Martin Maier somehow survived the avalanche, spent the night in open and appeared at C3, this morning (September 25th). Sherpa are assisting him on descent to BC. Details of his survival are not known, yet.
Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag are unfortunately still missing.
Sebastian and Andrea, R.I.P.!! My thoughts are with their families and freinds. 

Summer 2014 - My way

As always, or as the last several years, this summer has been busy traveling and working in the Mountains.
Although I have been much in the mountains the last few months, it has not been without knowing what happened on K2 this summer. oh my god ... how awesome is that!! A season on K2 which finally was successful and where many reached the top without the use of artificial oxygen.  In addition a year or season with "only" one death on the mountain!! R.I.P
Several of those who reached the summit and down safely are friends of mine. I have now received a lot of info from the mountain and my plans for the mountain is now started.... :-)

Well, back to my summer.

on the way - Elbrus. Photo by Jakob Urth

As last year, I was guiding on Elbrus. An easy ascent where I had two groups from the Danish company Topas. Great people who all got some experience to future climbs and who could enjoy the view from Europe's highest mountain. Great days ......
It was also this summer when I finally got started my own company. First real trip also went to Elbrus and with 100% success.
My setup is different than the other Companies I guide for and offer the climb. small groups, great service and very experienced guide team. 

Sun on Elbrus. Photo by Jakob Urth

 Much more on that later - there will be a brand new website and Facebook page for my company.
A little bonus info before it all Works: I will be offering and make special trips all over the World. Mountain expeditions to places and areas no other offer in Denmark and in particular to the Arctic and Himalaya 
Keep an eye on my site for updates.

Himalaya season 2014 has started

Right now - busy days on several of the 8000m mountains in Himalaya.

Lhotse:
The Korean climbers were almost hit by an avalanche, this week; something which isn't uncommon on notorious Lhotse South Face. However, they were lucky to escape the catastrophe unharmed. The incident took place at around 6200m, when the team was working on the route to C2 (which they intend to pitch at 6800m).
 As of now, the route has been opened till 6400m. For safety, they have fixed approximately 1 km of rope between BC and C1. C1 was set up at 5800m, last week. The weather has generally been bad since their arrival, here. It has snowed consistently and they are forced to climb in bad conditions.


Shishapangma:
Bad snow - Double 8 climbers Andrea Zambaldi, Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag, who were on the summit push. The team left ABC on September 17th at 1400hrs and by next morning, they had reached 7700m. But the snow and avalanche risk forced them to retreat. The climbers are now resting and recovering at ABC for another attempt.
I hope there will have another GO. Cool projekt ....


Makalu:
British team continues its march towards Makalu. Having started their trek on September 14th, they will soon be reaching the BC. But the Brits will not be alone on the mountain, this season. American guide, Garrett Madison is also leading a commercial expedition to SE Ridge, and was expected to fly out of Kathmandu, yesterday.

above 8000m on Cho Oyu. Photo by Jakob Urth

Manaslu and Cho Oyu:
Ropes have been fixed until just below C4 on Manaslu. Sherpa from Altitude Junkies and Himalayan Experience concluded the job on September 18th. Both teams are now awaiting good weather for summit push.
On Cho Oyu, route is fixed till C2 (7100m) and multiple teams are concluding their acclimatization.


Jakob Urth on the summit of Cho Oyu



Danes in Himalaya:
Right now - two teams fighting their way up Cho Oyu.
Actually, there are two people on each of their expedition. They are both part of a group where they share permit. It seems that they by no means working together on the climb, but try to reach the top in their own way !! Well, mountaineering in Denmark is probably no different than so many other places. I think you know what I mean:-)



Cho Oyu from Base Camp. Photo by Jakob  Urth 

The two are: Bo B - an older man who previously was very active in the mountains and in recent years has resumed his dream of the great mountains. With all due respect to him, especially the way he wants to climb. I really hope he is successful and that he is ready to his Everest NO O2 next year.

The other guy who also tries on Cho Oyu Right now is Ivan B. He is new in the game in the high Mountains and like most who want to climb big mountains. Everest is his main goal!!! I'm excited to see how much power he has.... once it gets tough and the thin air affects his body.
Lucky and wise of him - he brings a sherpa to help and bring him safe to the top of his many projects.
Good luck Ivan. I think you can do it.