Himalayan News

 Once again it's been a busy weekend in the Himalayas.

The Everest summit window is here! Most teams are already coming down the south side towards BC where the heli pad is busy picking up summiteers for swift transfer back to Kathmandu.

Why the climbers don’t trek out of BC I really can’t understand. It is one of the most beautiful walks in the world! Maybe the summit is their only goal….or maybe the food at hotels in Kathmandu has a greater attraction J

On Friday alone around 100 climbers reportedly migrated to the summit of Mount Everest. What is it with Everest .... so many people want to climb it? Where's the adventure in all this? What about all the other beautiful mountains, are they forgotten in the quest only to climb the highest.....

Photo by: http://mteverest2011.com summit of Everest

On Kanchenjunga, Cho Oyu, Lhotse and Makalu there is also news.

Kanchenjunga: On Philippe Gatta's blog the French say he was first on top this year, and that Swiss Cedric summited without oxygen.

As for the Russian team, out of nine members Alexi Bolotov, Nikolai Totmiyanin & Israfil Ashurli topped out. Christian Strangl reportedly summited with them but suffered frostbite. (Christian Strangl  proves his strength after he had little explanatory problems on K2 last year)

Cho Oyu: The Dutch climber Ronald Naar died on Cho Oyu!

The news was confirmed by Peak Freak this morning who reported on their website that Ronald collapsed following an aborted summit push during descent from camp 3 (7500 meters).

Photo by: Jakob Urth, above C3 on Cho Oyu 2010

Lhotse: At the beautiful and steep mountain Lhotse, climbers have also reached the the summit this Weekend .... some of them without using artificial oxygen. Well done.

Photo by: Jakob urth, Nepal 2008

Makalu: An infection wrecked Fabrizio and Kinga's summit push. Fabrizio is usually very strong and when he climbs with Kinga there are creepy. I really hope the best and think there will summit duing this week. ofcause without using artificial oxygen. Have a look at Fabrizios blog: http://fabriziozangrilli.blogspot.com/ or have a look at my blog Apr.27, 2011

Close – but no cigar.

The danish climber Søren Ledet is right now back in BC after his first attempt to the summit of Everest. http://www.sorenledet.com.au/wp/
"

I couldn’t believe it!

Kneeling in the snow with my back to the 70km winds I was yelling and swearing (in 2 languages) at my fingers desperately trying to force some warmth into them.

It was sometime before 3am on May 12^th, I was on the ‘Balcony’ at an altitude of 8400m with no sensation in fingers that suddenly looked and felt about as useful as claws; they began to freeze almost instantly as I removed my mittens trying to switch my regulator to a full oxygen bottle. Turning to the wind the spindrift would sting my face, but I had to get my bearings and see if others were around; no I was alone.

The summit of Everest, 8848m, was still hours away but I felt I was so close…....."

Soren looks powerful and I think he does the right thing by waiting at BC. He need to take a big decision on his further ascent of the mountain..... All in and take care up there.

Photo by: Søren Ledet, Back in C4

Rejseforedrag om Kilimanjaro og Aconcacua

Foto af: Jakob Urth - Aconcagua Ekspedition 2009, Argentina 

 

Kom til foredrag om bestigning af Kilimanjaro og Aconcagua. Foredraget bringer os rundt på to kontinenter, hvor der fortælles om krav til dig, der ønsker af stå på toppen af de 2 bjerge.

Foredrag afholdes af den kendte bjegbestiger: Jakob Urth. Jakob er en af Danmarks mest aktive og succesfulde bjergbestigere. To 8.000 m bestigninger og et utal af hhv. 5, 6 og 7.000 m toppe på sit CV. Disse erfaringer er med til at gøre Jakob til en af Topas ' mest kompetente og hærdede turledere. Derudover er Jakob den dansker med flest bestigninger af Aconcagua.

Arrangementerne er gratis og finder sted:

København d. 24. maj kl. 19.30 og Aarhus d. 30. maj kl. 19.30

Læs mere her:

http://www.topas.dk/pages/webside.asp?articleguid=117143

Tjek evt. også min youtube kanal for film fra toppen af fx. Aconcagua

Summit season has started on Everest..

According exploresweb ( http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/ ) is the first ascents of Everest this season just confirmed.
Again this year, many expeditions is to find in the Khumbu valley and put their hopes toward the top of Everest.
For those of you who have been in BC knows it's a big circus. people from around the world are gathered here for the sole purpose to get on top of the world's highest mountain. Exciting but also disturbing because the vast majority who climb Everest has little or no experience to draw upon. This could mean serious consequences for themselves and especially others on the mountain.
Everest is the tallest mountain and it attracts people ... I understand and everyone has the right to achieve their dreams in the way they think is best.
For me is Everest a mountain filled with history, mystery and challenge. The day I try to climb Everest, it will be on a small team and without using artificial oxygen.

 Any way...... This morning 09:15 am (Nepal time), Apa Sherpa, Climbing Leader of the Eco Everest Expedition 2011 reached the summit of Mt. Everest for the 21st time in a New World Record.

Danish Søren Ledet is in BC after an attempt to reach C4 a few days ago. Soren hope to gather strength for another attempt very soon. I'm sending positive energy to Soren and wish him the best. stay safe up there!
Apa Sherpa on the summit of Everest...one more time. Photo by Exploresweb

One lonely Dane is still on Everest

The Danish climber Søren Ledet stays on the mountain and as soon as the weather window allows he begin his attempt to the summit.

Søren's friend and climbing companion suffered a minor accident and is now heading towards Kathmandu.
It appears from their website that the expedition carries their own equipment, but that they wish to use artificial oxygen - O2 above C3
A shame because the expedition looks strong and not “just” bought a seat on a commercial expedition ... like most other Danish ascents of Everest.

Once again we can’t hope for a climb without the use of artificial oxygen.

Have a look at their website: http://www.sorenledet.com.au/wp/

Photo by Søren Ledet: C2-Everest 2011