Summit of Ama Dablam

Back in civilization and ready for a little update from my Ama Dablam climb.

Super cool and super exposed ... ... These are the two first words that pop up in my head. Ama Dablam was everything I had hoped she would be and must more.

I had wanted and planned an Alpine climb with my partner, but it was not quite like that. Long story, but he were trapped in KTM due to bad weather - like 500 others.  

I was super acclimatized from my three weeks of trekking - so no time to lose in BC

I arrived at BC on 14/11 and went to C1 on 15/11. Nice trip which only becomes more and more steep just before the camp. C1 is located on a mountain ridge and is the last "safe" point before the start of the climbing and the entrance to the world of rock, snow and ice .... And a world of insane exposure.
I stay two days in C1 and climb on 17/11 to C2 - which I continue from approx. at. 22 and climbs toward the summit ... .. It becomes a long and bloody cold night. I feelt strong and confident; actually enjoy climbing even though I am trying not to freeze finger and ass of while I was fighting my own fear of not falling into the void and… death!

Exposed, exposed, exposed ... ... ... ... ... ...
I reach the summit at about. 06:35 on 18/11, Happy but tired and begins the descent after approx. 30 min( wind and clouds had started to close the mountain) and I hope to reach BC on the same day.  BC at 18:50….. (more pictures soon)

 

Foto by: Charlotte Lycett Green

Trekking in the high Mountains

Everest BC and three high passes.

The 9-Nov, I sent a team of super trekkers home towards Denmark, after yet another fantastic trip in the Himalayan Mountains.

I feel both fortunate and privileged to be allowed to guide a group of happy and exciting people around the heart of the Khumbu - Everest valley, and thereby show them what makes me travel here again and again..We had some challenges along the way in terms of disease - Khumbu cough, which led some to have good and bad days….Well it is not easy to be a trekker ;) I feel however that is nothing compared to the many and great days we had on the trek. Three fantastic passes, where especially the last-Renjo pass appear as something unique. We had on all the passes and peak sunshine and great weather ... believe me, it is not always like that.

All fotos are taken by me on the trip. Check www.topas.dk for more info and date for the next departure in spring 2012.

                                                                                                              

Polar Activity

Right now on Antarctica unfold one of the Biggest drama in many years. Expeditions are struggling for survival and to achieve the goal. To reach the South Pole!

Today, everyone on an expedition have a  satellite phones and can send updates within a few minutes .... Good for safety but bad for the real adventure .. I think!

South pole..no, but from one of my Greenland Exp over the Icecap. Photo: Jakob Urth

Nearly 100 years ago ... Today ... was a completely different drama going on!  On 14 December 1911, Amundsen and his men reach the South Pole. They were in a race against Scott and his expedition of men, horses and other modern "equipment"

Antarctica Routes

As everyone is probably aware that Amundsen was first to reach the Pole and to go home and tell ....... Scott never returned. Today it has become "big business" to make expeditions to the poles. In a year like this where the legend of them all (Amundsen)  almost can be felt on the ice ..... Only gives extra courage to new polar adventures. One day I will be one of them!

Check out some of these links: http://www.explorersweb.com/polar/

New climbs in Pakistan, India and Afghanistan

This season (summer and autumn) besides all the nice 8000m ascents which came a little late this year. Again! It is almost more normal than extraordinarily...Right? Himalaya autumn season has become unstable for sure.
In the somewhat lesser known area - mountains have in "their" season been a serious activity with great new ascents:
"Following 10 days spent on the spire's NW face; the first Russian route was reported on Nameless Tower (6239 m) in Pakistan. An American team bagged Saser Kangri II East (7,518m) and a Spanish team bagged Junai Kangri (6.017m) - both first ascents - in India. Field Touring Alpine successfully guided Satopanth (7.075m). New Zealand's Christine Byrch and Pat Deavoll forged a new route on Koh-e-Baba Tangi (6,516 m) in Afghanistan's Wakan corridor. Three Americans bagged Meru (6300 m) via unclimbed Shark's Fin route. Two young Slovenians, in their first Himalayan experience, took four days to carve a new route on K7 West (6858 m) in Pakistan."
Info from :http://www.explorersweb.com/

 

Ama Dablam (6856m) - my next project

In about three weeks from now I will go to Nepal.

Photo by Jakob Urth

This season will once again be used in the Solu Khumbu (Everest) valley. After having guided a group to Everest BC - I have around 3-4 weeks to complete this old dream. To climb Ama Dablam by the Southwest Ridge.
I have often trekked the hills in the area and even been in BC - I’ve climbed other peaks surrounding it, but this season I hope to set foot on the beautiful steep flanks. I'm ready.

Ama Dablam on the way to Everest BC.Project-himalaya.com

I hope to make an alpine ascent and test myself in one of the most spectacular mountains in the Himalayas

I expect to be at BC around the 15 of November. Drop by if you're in the area ;)

Danish activity on Cho Oyu

C1 on Cho Oyu 2011. Photo by SKL

There are currently two Danes in action right now.
It is Søren Kruse Ledet (live in Australia ) but still Danish. Right!! Soren tried to climb Everest this spring but failed sadly in the last minute. He is back and once again hungry for adventure and altitude.Soren is on a team of friends from Australia/NZ and helped by a strong Sherpa staff and guides.
The second Dane who is in action is Claus Bo Hansen. He's on a team from Asian Trekking. Claus climbs with a Sherpa.
I wish them both and their team good luck. Take care of yourselves up there.
Web: http://sorenledet.com.au/ChoOyu/

Walter Bonatti passes away at 81

The world's climbing community has lost its ultimate reference for excellence:

a young Walter Bonatti
Photo by explorersweb.com  

The legendary climber represented, though his climbs and his life, the highest values in Alpinism. The north faces, the solo climbs, the first ascents and the exploration - Bonatti's resume is a compilation of ingenuity, elegance, courage, innovation, honesty and constant challenge, in the search for the raw beauty of pure climbing.
Sumarizing, Walter Bonatti reached out for the uttermost difficulty, the unexplored, the impossible. His name is written forever on many of the most beautiful mountain faces of the world: from the East Face of the Grand Capucin (opened in 1951) to Gasherbrum IV's Shining Wall (1958) or the Cima Ovest di lavaredo (winter 1963). Pitch by pitch, he opened new routes and showed the way to a new generation of climbers. Or so he wished. Or so the entire climbing community wished, as they mourn today.

RIP, Walter Bonatti.

Adventure and high mountains

Right now I am enjoying the Danish “summer” and struggling to get back in super shape ... over the next many months would I be staying in Nepal. From the start of October to early January, I will guide two groups around Khumbu Valley - Everest Base Camp trek and show them some of my favorite places! One of the groups is a extended edition of the BC trek. We will do a crossing of the three 5000 m mountain pass: Kongma La (5,534 m), Cho La (5,345 m) and Renjo La (5,415 m) and climb some of the small trekking peaks.
Check out these links for more info and registration
http://www.topas.dk/pages/turbeskrivelse-everest-base-camp-tre-spektakulaere-bjergpas.html

http://www.topas.dk/pages/Turbeskrivelse-Nepal---Everest-Basecamp-.html
Between the two departures / jobs, I have about a month to my own adventures. The plan is to go to Ama Dablam (6856m) and make a “quick” alpine ascent. The acclimatization will I get through the BC trek and maybe a few small ascents along the way. The plan is then to move myself and my gear further into the mountains. I have a strong wish to go to some more isolated area and try to make a climb there. More about that later;)

Few days after my return from Nepal, I proceed to Argentina where I once again will guide on Aconcagua (6962m). This time I have two ascents - the first where I only guide one client and shortly after a group of around 12 to 14 clients. It is really going to be hard, since the first ascent only have a timeframe of 14 days (Denmark - Argentina - Denmark) well ... I'm ready and I will do everything possible to make this little project successful.

2011 Summit team at Aconcagua Base Camp.
Photo by Jakob Urth

Check out these links for more info and registration
http://www.topas.dk/pages/Turbeskrivelse-Argentina---Aconcagua-bestigning.html

http://www.topas.dk/pages/turbeskrivelse-argentina-aconcagua-bestigning-inkl-formoeder-og-deltagelse-af-chris-macdonald.html

well ...... then I've got big plans for a expedition next spring in Nepal. This means .......... I want to go alone and try again to make an ascent of a 8000m mountain without using artificial oxygen ...... more about this project soon;)

guess a mountain?

 my beloved down suit from The North Face at 7200m on Cho Oyu

Next fall (2012) it will be something completely new. I will guide the "Seven Summits" mountain Carstensz Pyramid on the island of Papua in Indonesia. It will truly be an adventure and I look forward to visit this amazing place and culture.
Check out this link for more info and registration.
http://www.topas.dk//pages/turbeskrivelse-indonesien-papua-ekspedition-til-carstensz-pyramide.html

The picture to the left is an ad from Topas Travel and if everything goes to plan I will guide all these fantastic trips during this and next year.
well ... it makes me happy.

K2 SUMMITS! Gerlinde bags the first female No-O2 14x8000ers ascent

No less than fantastic!.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has written mountaineer history whit her ascent of K2. She has really proved her strength and determination for the project - and her faith in own abilities.

Photo from readyfornature.com

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner just summited K2 and becomes the first female to complete the first NO-O2 14x8000ers ascent. The Austrian climber topped-out at 18.18h, local time. 

On her website her team posted an update a few hours ago.http://www.gerlinde-kaltenbrunner.at/en/neuigkeiten/
"Brief Update, 24 August 2011 – 10am – Team still descending
-At midnight last night, Gerlinde, and a little later also Darek, reached Camp IV at 8,000m. Vassily and Maxut stayed the night at their bivouac at 8,300m, from where they left at 7am. They have now almost reached Camp IV.
Today, they are planning to descend to Camp I at 5,300m, where they will spend one last night at the foot of the North Pillar before they will go down to our deposit camp tomorrow. I am planning to go up and meet them there.
From there, it will probably take another three hours to carry our heavy gear across the dry K2 glacier to our base camp, which Tommy and I have almost completely dismantled.
Once at base camp, we will pack up our last belongings and go down to the Chinese base camp (about 3 ½ hours), where our camel herders are already waiting for us.
These are our preliminary plans, however, the four of them have to get down safely first. We wish them all the necessary strength and concentration, which they certainly need to manage the last 2,500m of their descent.
I will be in touch again as soon as Gerlinde, Maxut, Vassiliy and Darek have arrived at Camp I.
Ralf Dujmovits from K2 base camp"

Photo from peakfriends.de

After two months on the lonely north face of K2, the international team comprising Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany), Maxut Zhumayev (Kazakhstan), Vassiliy Pivtsov (Kazakhstan), Darek Zaluski (Poland) and Tommy Heinrich (Argentina) has persevered, worked perfectly coordinated and, finally, succeeded.

K2 north pillar Tuesday morning update: To the summit!

http://www.explorersweb.com  Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Darek Zaluski, Vassiliy Pivtsov and Maxut Zhumayev have left their bivouac at 8,300m on K2 north pillar today at 1:30 am, local time, towards the summit.

"An icy, starry night welcomed the climbers as they departed," Ralf Dujmovits reported from BC. "Cold made things tough since, although the slope above the bivouac place is "only" 45 degrees, most of the time they have to climb on their crampons' front points, which restricts blood flow and, at -25 ° , leads to to icy feet."

K2 north pillar upper slopes. Close-up on the left shows the climbers bivouac at 8,300m.
Image by Ralf Dujmovits,

Gerlinde, Max, Vassiliy and Darek are also fighting wet boots and general exhaustion after over two months on the hill. Nevertheless, at 07:30 clock they were on the go and making good progress, according to Ralf.

Gerlinde has checked in on the radio from 8,400m at 11.30am, local time. The team was having a though time due to bitter cold, but hoped for the sun to hit the face soon, and therefore felt confident. Check for further updates later to day...I realy hope that Gerlinde will summit this time and get back safe! Take care up there.....

Resolute Bay crash - Arctic skiers Base Camp

 A chartered First Air 737 passenger jet crashed Saturday near Resolute Bay, killing 12 people and injuring three. The flight was not connected to military activities in the area and seems to have carried staff and workers related to South Camp Inn.

The Danish media(http://nyhederne.tv2.dk/article.php/id-42808216%3Apassagerfly-styrtet-ned-i-canada.html?rss ) described the crash and aircraft like this : "Passenger aircraft Boeing 737 had a total of 15 people on board including four crew members when it crashed in the Arctic territory of Nunavut, which lies west of Greenland"

Image by Vincent Desrosiers/CBC , www.cbc.ca

GlobeAndMail news reported that Aziz (Ozzie) Kheraj had two granddaughters, 6 and 7 years old sisters Cheyenne and Gabrielle Eckalook onboard. Gabrielle survived.
Ozzie and his Resolute Bay South Camp Inn are known to most Arctic skiers as the final Base Camp before they are flown to the Canadian edge of the ice. This is where they sort through their sleds and enjoy their last comforts such as warm beds and prepared meals before their months-long expeditions.

The plane reportedly crashed into a hill near Resolute and was shattered. Cause of the crash is under investigation. Released names of victims include Arctic researcher Marty Bergmann and South Camp Inn cook Randy Reid. The three survivors include a 48-year-old man, a 23-year-old woman and the seven-year-old girl.

K2 -

My friend and US-based mountaineer Rob Springer is back from a few months in Pakistan! He tried to climb what is known as a "double". He wanted to acclimatize on Broad Peak, before moving his gear and focus on K2. Broad Peak is the 12th Highest Mountain in the world, but it is Safer and less steep than K2. By acclimatize on Broad Peak and then simply make a quick attempt two summit K2, limiting the time on the more dangerous mountain!

Photo by Rob Springer - K2

Rob showed with this expedition that he has the strength and courage on large projects. Which I have greatest respect. He also showed that when it all gets too much ... he takes the big decision and turns. It takes courage! He has proven he has what it takes and I know he will come back for more. Attempt to climb K2 is a great thing… and some think that coming home and be able tell is a even  bigger thing!!

 See you out there ...

Africa one more time!

Well, I'm back after a month in Tanzania - Africa with two ascents of Kilimanjaro and  some spectacular safari. Like the last time I was there I worked for Topas Travel. And with these ascents I've seen the summit of Africa 7 – 8  times. It is still fantastic!
Check www.topas.dk for more info about the trip and the next departure. Believe me ... it's one of the best trips I guide and I enjoy every second of it.

New Sponsor

I've just started a sponsorship cooperation with BLIZ active eyewear and sunglasses and Goggles from DR ZIPE. Two manufacturers of some of the best eyewear on the market. BLIZ has just developed a line of sunglasses for mountaineering and climbing. It is these I will use on my tours and expeditions in the future. In my preparations I will also use BLIZ's series of fitness eyewear for running and cycling. Finally, they have some pretty cool eyewear to Life in the big city .... and in the quest for a beautiful women:)

DR ZIPE has in recent years developed into one of the really big "players" with their goggles for skiing elite worldwide. In addition their eyewear and the whole culture behind DR ZIPE created a strong focus on using good and cool goggles - sunglasses.
It is something that I must and will carry on into my world of mountains and adventure.

 

Claus Larsen, Country Manager at Future Denmark

Adventure and travel is not far from the world, Claus Larsen also live in. Besides being Country Manager of Future Denmark, he is a experienced diver and underwater photographer with titles such as National champion (DM) and participation at the World Championships!

Kilimanjaro calling

In two weeks’ time I will go back to Tanzania for guiding on the beautiful mountain Kilimanjaro. I've been on top many times and this summer there will be several more ascents to the collection. :)

I will again guide for Topas Travel (a DK based company) www.topas.dk

 This summer I have two groups in which one also include safaris in eg the stunning Ngorongoro Crater.

Kili - 5895m photo by Jakob Urth

The second group is somewhat of a VIP group. Only 6 pax and I have been joined by Denmark's most important health and training specialist. Chris Macdonald - http://www.chrismacdonald.dk/

I do not care who's along for the ride .... I want to give everyone a fantastic experience to the top of Africa. Chris and I will later this year go for a  climb on Aconcagua and then I(we) will guide a big group up the "seven Summit" mountain later on.

Rob Springer K2 Expedition

My friend and US-based climber Robert Springer is now heading towards the mountain above them all...... K2.

Photo by Jakob Urth. K2 - taken on my way to Gasherbrum 2 in 2008

I met Rob during an expedition in Nepal some years ago. He was very determined to climb Everest.
He succeed that in 2009 but he suffered frostbite in many toes!
Now he is back and stronger than ever.....
I really hope he is successful and especially he comes back in one piece.

Rob has postet this on his blog 16/6:
"We’re still in Skardu for now and are hoping to leave tomorrow (the day after at the latest). We’re waiting for our liaison officer from the Pakistani army to arrive and accompany us to base camp.  This is a politically sensitive area in Pakistan, not that far from China and India and there are a number of checkpoints to pass on the way to the base camps.  Apparently, we need an officer to make sure we are up to what we are supposed to be up to (mtn climbing and insurgent neutralization).

 A couple expedition notes:  There are no other expeditions climbing our planned route on K2 this year (the Cesen), so we will be climbing the more popular Abruzzi Spur route.  There will be 5 other teams on that route, which will make route fixing much easier.  

http://www.springerk2.com/