Summit of Ama Dablam

Back in civilization and ready for a little update from my Ama Dablam climb.

Super cool and super exposed ... ... These are the two first words that pop up in my head. Ama Dablam was everything I had hoped she would be and must more.

I had wanted and planned an Alpine climb with my partner, but it was not quite like that. Long story, but he were trapped in KTM due to bad weather - like 500 others.  

I was super acclimatized from my three weeks of trekking - so no time to lose in BC

I arrived at BC on 14/11 and went to C1 on 15/11. Nice trip which only becomes more and more steep just before the camp. C1 is located on a mountain ridge and is the last "safe" point before the start of the climbing and the entrance to the world of rock, snow and ice .... And a world of insane exposure.
I stay two days in C1 and climb on 17/11 to C2 - which I continue from approx. at. 22 and climbs toward the summit ... .. It becomes a long and bloody cold night. I feelt strong and confident; actually enjoy climbing even though I am trying not to freeze finger and ass of while I was fighting my own fear of not falling into the void and… death!

Exposed, exposed, exposed ... ... ... ... ... ...
I reach the summit at about. 06:35 on 18/11, Happy but tired and begins the descent after approx. 30 min( wind and clouds had started to close the mountain) and I hope to reach BC on the same day.  BC at 18:50….. (more pictures soon)

 

Foto by: Charlotte Lycett Green