Danes on Everest 2.0

Close but no cigar.
The Danish NO 02 climber Bo B. tried to reach the summit of Everest some days ago. With a bit of trouble, he reached C2 and was now ready for the summit ascent. Exhaustion, wind and help to Sherpas who were coming down from the summit - did the outcome - No more power left.
Good preparation, wise choices, experience and good acclimatization is just not always enough to climb a mountain over 8000 meters. You also need luck! Next time Bo .... Next time.

Three other Danes actually summit this seson - All with heavy use of artificial oxygen (02) Sherpas and......Because of the use of artificial oxygen - one might not approve these ascents as true. The use of oxygen makes the mountain smaller and therefore it is just another fake climb.

Back in camp after the summit. Photo by Bo B.

Everest: 14x 8000m speed record

Kim Chang-Ho Before Everest Foto by Ex web

South Korean Kim Chang-Ho summited Everest on May 20 and became the first Korean climber who summited Everest without supplemental oxygen and the first Korean who finished all the 14x 8000m peaks without O2. He did the 14x 8000ers in a time with 7 years, 10 months and six days, reported the Korean Alpine Federation, breaking the previous record of 7 years, 11 months and 14 days set by Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka.
Fantastic achievement and a huge inspiration to me!!

Danes on Everest

Right now four Danes are fighting there way up Everest. They are spread over 2 - 3 expeditions. This means that one is client in a big international group. (almost like all the other Danish ascents and of course with the use of artificial oxygen) Another proof - that Everest is apparently for all - with or without experience. A proof of what???
The other three "share" another expedition but do not have the same plan of the ascent. Again two new climbers who want to climb Everest - which they probably do! They do not have much experience, but with a huge setup there will be safe for the trip up and down.

The strong Dane Bo Belvedere. Photo by Bo B.

The last Dane trying on Everest this year is an "old legend". He has had two previous attempts - both from the south side. This year it is from the north and without the use of artificial oxygen and only with BC support. Amazing - again a sincere attempt to cilmb Everest the hard and right way. If anyone can climb Everest without oxygen - it is Bo Belvedere. He has several 8000m climbs, new climbs and strong alpine climbs over many years. I believe in him and wish him a safe climb up and down. Be safe up there.

Everest from North - Photo by Bo Belvedere

Alexey Bolotov found dead and the same is Namgyal Sherpa

Alexey Bolotov have died on Everest! Yesterday came the sad news that one of the largest and most respected mountain climbers found dead.
Bolotov is behind many major ascents over the last many years. The 50-year-old Russian has shown that technical routes at high altitudes - are still possible in a world filled with commercial and boring expeditions .... to mountains and routes that are climbed 1,000 times. Like all the s... that are going on right now Everest. R.I.P
Precise details about the unfortunate incident still remain vague but body of the climber has been recovered and moved to Kathmandu. Apparently the incident happened before the start of new route attempt.

The Sherpa. Namgyal Sherpa reportedly has died at 8300 meters on the North side on Friday. There are few details right now on cause of death but it is confirmed and his family has been notified.
Namgyal, 35, was a mainstay in the Sherpa and climbing community with 7 summits but also one of the leaders in the Climb for Peace and Extreme Everest expeditions, a clean up climb. He was known for his camera and filming skills. He will be missed. I was lucky enough to meet and talk with him during a previous expedition.
My condolences to his family and friends. This is the 6^th death this season, four being Sherpa. R.I.P

Not all is bad - Russian on Lhotse
Alex Borodenkov, Viktor Koval and Sergey Kondrashkin arrived at BC on 19th April and remained busy in acclimatization and setting up higher camps till 8th May. Then they went down to green-zone for some rest before summit push. The trio returned to BC on 13th May. Although weather wasn't ideal but they continued to C2 on same day.
Viktor Koval and Sergey Kondrashkin reached the summit of Lhotse at 1300Hrs local time, while Alex Borodenkov had to turn back slightly short of the top. They are back in C4 (7800m) now. The team has been working independently on the mountain, without guides and porters. The right way!!

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