My 2014 - himalayan autumn season

Well,I was back in the high himalayan this fall ... as usual, and this season was definitely one of the best. Not because I got on top of new, high and technical peaks - which I did not, but because the people I guided this time was very special. Good weather and good snow conditions made our ascent of Island Peak a pleasure and nice experience.

On the way to the high mountains. Photo by Kaji Sherpa

Check out some good shots from our trip:

Naming of the peaks photo by Kaji Sherpa

Jakob Urth make new plans - new lines. Photo by Kaji sherpa

Jakob Urth and Kaji Sherpa - Summit of Island Peak

Party in Lukla....

Sun and happy times on the way back . Photo by Kaji Sherpa

My group on the climb. Photo by Kaji

rental shoes in kathmandu

Jakob Urth pulling hard

Terrible news from Shishapangma

On the beautiful and 8027 m high mountain Shishapangma in Tibet, has there early today (25.09) been a terrible accident. An avalanche has hit three climbers and two presumed dead.

It makes me sincerely sad that this should happen again. Three strong climbers and as part of a five man group that was at the season's first real summitattempt. Strong and very experienced climbers who teame/partnership with Uli sterk was hit by a large avalanche only 100 m below the summit.
From there expedition site: (Double8)
"Double 8 team - Andrea Zambaldi, Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag - was on a mission to speed climb two eight-thousanders, Shishapangma and Cho Oyu, within a week. On their first mountain, Shishapangma, they had been battling difficult conditions since past few weeks. Yesterday, they were approaching the summit, when an avalanche hit the team. Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag were buried under the snow and are still missing.

Benedikt Bohm, Sebastian Haag and Andrea Zambaldi
courtesy Double 8 Expedition, SOURCE

A week ago, excessive snow forced the three climbers to retreat from 7700m. However, on September 23rd, they launched their second (and final) summit-bid on the mountain. This time, they were also joined by Swiss Ueli Steck  and German Martin Maier.
 
As per information from Base Camp, Benedikt Boehm and Ueli Steck started the “speed ascent” from ABC (5600m) at 04:30PM (Nepalese time) on September 23rd. They reached C1 (6300m) at around 08:00PM and as planned, Sebastian Haag joined them from there.
 
While the three climbers continued their ascent from C1, two more members Martin Maier and Andrea Zambaldi who were in C2 at that time, also started climbing up. The two groups met each other just below C3 at around 01:00 AM (September 24th). They all arrived at C3 (7100m) at 2:00AM. At 06:50AM, it’s said that the team was merely 100m below summit and were hoping to be at the top by 08:00AM.
 
The climbers have been communicating about difficult and dangerous conditions on the mountain throughout the ascent. Benedikt Boehm’s message from 7700m read, “the deep, windblown snow is killing us,” and from 7850m he said, “fighting, fighting, fighting. Heaps of snow and high risk of avalanche … Frustrating!!”
 
Unfortunately, the danger materialized in disaster when the climbers were at 7900m. An avalanche swept Zambaldi, Haag and Maier 600m down, 'over steep glaciers, into another section of the mountain'. Steck and Boehm immediately asked for help from BC and headed down to avalanche zone for a possible search and rescue operation. It’s reported that despite trying for four hours, they couldn’t reach there, “there was no access to the avalanche zone.”

Jakob Urth on Shisha in bad weather

 
However, Martin Maier somehow survived the avalanche, spent the night in open and appeared at C3, this morning (September 25th). Sherpa are assisting him on descent to BC. Details of his survival are not known, yet.
Andrea Zambaldi and Sebastian Haag are unfortunately still missing.
Sebastian and Andrea, R.I.P.!! My thoughts are with their families and freinds. 

Summer 2014 - My way

As always, or as the last several years, this summer has been busy traveling and working in the Mountains.
Although I have been much in the mountains the last few months, it has not been without knowing what happened on K2 this summer. oh my god ... how awesome is that!! A season on K2 which finally was successful and where many reached the top without the use of artificial oxygen.  In addition a year or season with "only" one death on the mountain!! R.I.P
Several of those who reached the summit and down safely are friends of mine. I have now received a lot of info from the mountain and my plans for the mountain is now started.... :-)

Well, back to my summer.

on the way - Elbrus. Photo by Jakob Urth

As last year, I was guiding on Elbrus. An easy ascent where I had two groups from the Danish company Topas. Great people who all got some experience to future climbs and who could enjoy the view from Europe's highest mountain. Great days ......
It was also this summer when I finally got started my own company. First real trip also went to Elbrus and with 100% success.
My setup is different than the other Companies I guide for and offer the climb. small groups, great service and very experienced guide team. 

Sun on Elbrus. Photo by Jakob Urth

 Much more on that later - there will be a brand new website and Facebook page for my company.
A little bonus info before it all Works: I will be offering and make special trips all over the World. Mountain expeditions to places and areas no other offer in Denmark and in particular to the Arctic and Himalaya 
Keep an eye on my site for updates.

Himalaya season 2014 has started

Right now - busy days on several of the 8000m mountains in Himalaya.

Lhotse:
The Korean climbers were almost hit by an avalanche, this week; something which isn't uncommon on notorious Lhotse South Face. However, they were lucky to escape the catastrophe unharmed. The incident took place at around 6200m, when the team was working on the route to C2 (which they intend to pitch at 6800m).
 As of now, the route has been opened till 6400m. For safety, they have fixed approximately 1 km of rope between BC and C1. C1 was set up at 5800m, last week. The weather has generally been bad since their arrival, here. It has snowed consistently and they are forced to climb in bad conditions.


Shishapangma:
Bad snow - Double 8 climbers Andrea Zambaldi, Benedikt Böhm and Sebastian Haag, who were on the summit push. The team left ABC on September 17th at 1400hrs and by next morning, they had reached 7700m. But the snow and avalanche risk forced them to retreat. The climbers are now resting and recovering at ABC for another attempt.
I hope there will have another GO. Cool projekt ....


Makalu:
British team continues its march towards Makalu. Having started their trek on September 14th, they will soon be reaching the BC. But the Brits will not be alone on the mountain, this season. American guide, Garrett Madison is also leading a commercial expedition to SE Ridge, and was expected to fly out of Kathmandu, yesterday.

above 8000m on Cho Oyu. Photo by Jakob Urth

Manaslu and Cho Oyu:
Ropes have been fixed until just below C4 on Manaslu. Sherpa from Altitude Junkies and Himalayan Experience concluded the job on September 18th. Both teams are now awaiting good weather for summit push.
On Cho Oyu, route is fixed till C2 (7100m) and multiple teams are concluding their acclimatization.


Jakob Urth on the summit of Cho Oyu



Danes in Himalaya:
Right now - two teams fighting their way up Cho Oyu.
Actually, there are two people on each of their expedition. They are both part of a group where they share permit. It seems that they by no means working together on the climb, but try to reach the top in their own way !! Well, mountaineering in Denmark is probably no different than so many other places. I think you know what I mean:-)



Cho Oyu from Base Camp. Photo by Jakob  Urth 

The two are: Bo B - an older man who previously was very active in the mountains and in recent years has resumed his dream of the great mountains. With all due respect to him, especially the way he wants to climb. I really hope he is successful and that he is ready to his Everest NO O2 next year.

The other guy who also tries on Cho Oyu Right now is Ivan B. He is new in the game in the high Mountains and like most who want to climb big mountains. Everest is his main goal!!! I'm excited to see how much power he has.... once it gets tough and the thin air affects his body.
Lucky and wise of him - he brings a sherpa to help and bring him safe to the top of his many projects.
Good luck Ivan. I think you can do it.

  

a small update from the last few months.

Since January, I've been pretty much non stop in the mountains ....
Here are some impressions and pictures from my trips. Aconcagua in Argentina where I was a tour guide and Danish leader of two expeditions in January and Febuar - in April I was back in Nepal as a guide on a trek to Everest BC...

And the winner is....

Canadians Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski, along with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck, have won the 2014 Piolets d’Or.
The Piolets d’Or jury has come to a decision based on the Piolets d’Or charter. The technical committee of the Piolets d’Or provided a list of over 70 significant ascents completed around the world in 2013 that more or less met the Piolets d’Or criteria for ethical climbing. The jury and the technical committee spent many days trying to choose the most representative of those 70, and finally narrowed the list down to five nominees plus one special mention. Because there are many facets of exploratory mountaineering, it was very difficult to choose the final nominees. There were a least 10 more ascents that might well have made the final list. A different jury might have made different choices for the final nominees, and indeed different choices for the final awards.



K6 West Northwest Face
Altitude 7,040 m, 1,800 metres of climbing, WI 4+, M6+, six days of climbing.
K6 West was a previous unclimbed summit and the target of several earlier attempts. Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted were confronted with difficult technical climbing including an overhanging ice crux. On the fourth day they realized they couldn’t continue on the ridge as it turned out to be a knife edge of smooth granite. After careful consideration they found another possibility, rappelling to a glacial bench on the south side and climbing back up the ridge above the unclimbable section to continue to the summit.

The 2014 Piolets d’Or winners, Ueli Steck, Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski

Annapurna South Face Solo
Altitude 8,091 m, 2,500 metres of climbing, M4/M5, up to 85 degrees, 28 hours of climbing.
After reaching the bergschrund, Ueli Steck had to accept that his climbing partner thought the risk too high. In climbing the face alone, Steck subjected himself to maximum exposure. Despite not knowing what was awaiting him above 6,500 metres, he managed to complete the unfinished route of Pierre Béghin and Jean-Christophe Lafaille (of 1992). Achieving a first ascent on this wall, climbing alone, in very rapid alpine style seems to be a new dimension in high altitude climbing.

Piolets d’Or 2014

Throughout the world 2014 has seen impressive climbs, from which an International Jury, representing all trends in mountaineering, has made its nominations..... Cool stuff :-)

Piolets d’Or 2013

Last year, jury awarded the Golden Ice Axe to all six nominated climbs. Everyone was a winner (or as critics argue, no one was a winner). Some called it controversial; others termed it as “in the best interests of alpinism.”


The 2013 Climbs

2013 was an extraordinary year. It was dominated by an unprecedented sequence of calamities and controversies, but there had also been plenty of incredible climbs. Seasoned journalists Claude Gardien and Lindsay Griffin compiled the ‘Super Big List’ of important climbs from all around the globe, from which the jury selected the five nominees.


The Nominations

1. Talung (7439m) - First ascent of North Face of the mountain by Czech duo Zdenek Hruby and Marek Holecek (Zdenek Hruby, sadly, died while attempting a new route on Gasherbrum-I in Summer.)

2. Mt. Laurens (3052m) - New route on the Northeast Buttress by American climbers Graham Zimmerman and Mark Allen

3. Kunyang Chhish East (7400m) - The first ascent by Swiss Simon Anthamatten and Austrian brothers Hansjorg and Matthias Auer, via Southwest face

4. K6 West (7040m) - First ascent by Canadians Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted

5. Annapurna I (8091m) - Ueli Steck's 28 hours (round-trip) ascent, completing a new route (Beghin-Lafaille route) on mountain’s South Face

Special Mention
French alpinists Stephane Benoist and Yannick Graziani received a ‘Special Mention’ for eight-day alpine style ascent of Beghin-Lafaille route on Annapurna South Face. Stephane suffered severe frostbite on descent.

The Jury

The panel of experts which will be selecting the winners for Piolets d’Or 2014, consists of :-

George Lowe (USA)
Erri de Luca (Italy)
Catherine Destivelle (France)
Denis Urubko (Russia)
Sungmuk Lim (Korea)
Karin Steinbach (Germany)

Nanga is over...for now

The mountain forced some people to quit even before reaching Camp 1, however, one person made it to 7850m. It had been explored by men led by Maciej Berbeka, by Andrzej Zawada and by Krzysztof Wielicki. It had been attempted by Artur Hajzer, Simone Moro, Darek Zaluski and by Denis Urubko. Some attempted it once, others twice or thrice and few even four times. It has been the winter-dream-home of Tomek Mackiewicz and Marek Klonowski since 2010.

Despite all the efforts by Poles, Italians, Germans, Brits, Americans, Hungarians, Russians and French, Nanga Parbat stands unclimbed after 26 seasons and 21 expeditions.

This Season

The western face of Nanga Parbat receives little sun in winter and is often packed with hard ice. However, the major cause of concern, this season, has been the seracs near 6000m in the middle of Diamir face. Ralf Dujmovits and Daniele Nardi couldn’t launch their ‘light and rapid’ attempts on Messner 1978 and Mummery Rib lines, respectively, due to dangerous conditions.

Unfortunately, 2013 was a terrible year for Polish winter climbing. Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski were lost on Broad Peak. Artur Hajzer, the head of Polish Winter Himalaism project (which receives funding from PZA and Polish government), died on GI. Consequently, there wasn't any PZA team on 8000ers, this winter. However, another Polish team - Justice for All - made the fourth consecutive attempt on Nanga Parbat.

Simone Moro also returned to Nanga Parbat. Denis Urubko didn’t accompany him because of security concerns. But Simone and German David Gottler blended perfectly. Both Polish and Italian-German teams worked on Schell route. There had been multiple summit attempts, but the bad weather halted their progress well below the top, every time. In final attempt, Tomek Mackiewicz and David Gottler retreated from 7200m.


Next winter

The next winter climbing season is still far away, but the climbers have expressed their intentions to return to the mountain.
I hope there do so...and I hope that there all will be safe

Winter on Nanga: Still no success..The Poles are waiting

The weather window over the past weekend also didn’t prove to be good enough for a summit push. David Gottler and Tomek Mackiewicz went up from C4 (7000m) to 7200m and were able to view the route on Diamir side. Although, as per Tomek the route wasn’t in particularly bad condition, the strong wind and intense cold forced the duo to turn back!

End of The North Face Expedition

David Gottler (left) with Simone Moro

 Simone Moro, David Gottler and Emilio Previtali are expected to leave the Nanga Parbat BC soon. Due to multiple factors like unpromising weather forecast, the historical pattern of excessive snow in March and personal commitments of team members, the team decided not to wait further at Base Camp.
I´m so sorry for that - I really hoped that is was this year that Nanga in Winter was on! Next time.....Next time.

The Poles Wait

Their visa and climbing permissions were about to expire and food supplies were diminishing. It was being considered that Poles would also quit after third summit attempt. However, they have decided to hang on till March 21st

Nardi Quits

Apart from the fear and anxiety at BC, the conditions on Diamir Face were also not fair enough for climbing this season. Ralf Dujmovits returned home without launching his solo attempt on Messner 1978 route due to serac fall risk and now Daniele Nardi also leaves because of dangerous conditions on Mummery Rib.

An avalanche coming down the center of Diamir Face

Daniele climbed above C1 on Kinshofer route a week ago, and narrowly escaped an ice avalanche. Keeping in view the weather pattern, the hazardous conditions and his climbing style (solo and alpine style), the Italian climber has decided to return home.

Nanga is on..

The Polish, Italian/German and German/Polish teams are celebrating their New Year at Nanga Parbat BCs, where strong wind is thrashing their tents, snow is accumulating heavily and temperatures are below -20°C even inside tents. But Charly Gabl, the meteorologist, predicts that wind speeds will recede from tomorrow and weather shall remain “partly cloudy, sunny and dry” for a few days.
 
 Flexibility in Ralf Dujmovits’ Plans
 
After assessing available options and eventually choosing 1978 Messner route, Ralf Dujmovits and Darek Zaluski have started working on the mountain. After the initial reconnaissance, they stayed at Base Camp on December 28th as Darek wasn’t feeling well.
 
Next day, both went up and spent the night at 4900m. This is the place where Messner route diverges from Kinshofer. "It was not so easy to pitch the tent in this storm. We have benefitted from our great experience of many expeditions." Ralf told Stefan Nestler over satellite phone.
 
On 30th, they negotiated the treacherous ice fall and made a depot at 5500m, which may also serve as C1 in future. The weather and route conditions were tough. They witnessed avalanches and tumbled down into snow holes, few times. The duo returned to BC at night.
 
Today (on 31st), it kept on snowing all day. “We certainly have between 35 and 40 centimeter of fresh snow,” says Ralf.

Nanga Parbat Diamir Base Camp.

 
To be successful in Himalayan winter you need to be proactive and flexible. The tough conditions on the mountain are making Ralf Dujmovits to rethink about his strategy. “I was hoping to be able to climb this 1000-meter-high (ice fall) section in only one push. But it became so complicated that finding the way through the crevasses and seracs really became a time consuming and scary task. I’m losing my acclimatization. Maybe I have to work my way up camp by camp… that was not really my plan.”
 
 
Waiting Game for Poles
 
On Rupal side, the Polish climbers, Tomek, Marek, Jacek Teler and Pawel Dunaj (with Michal and Michal), reached C-1A at 5500m on December 26th, before the change in weather forced them to retreat to BC. The team is still in Base Camp, “It is the 30th of December now and we all are killing the time in anticipation for some sunshine - recovering from the last outing on the mountain, playing cards, eating loads and hearing whatever stories each of the team members has to share.”