Flexibility in Ralf Dujmovits’ Plans
After assessing available options and eventually choosing 1978 Messner route, Ralf Dujmovits and Darek Zaluski have started working on the mountain. After the initial reconnaissance, they stayed at Base Camp on December 28th as Darek wasn’t feeling well.
Next day, both went up and spent the night at 4900m. This is the place where Messner route diverges from Kinshofer. "It was not so easy to pitch the tent in this storm. We have benefitted from our great experience of many expeditions." Ralf told Stefan Nestler over satellite phone.
On 30th, they negotiated the treacherous ice fall and made a depot at 5500m, which may also serve as C1 in future. The weather and route conditions were tough. They witnessed avalanches and tumbled down into snow holes, few times. The duo returned to BC at night.
Today (on 31st), it kept on snowing all day. “We certainly have between 35 and 40 centimeter of fresh snow,” says Ralf.
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| Nanga Parbat Diamir Base Camp. |
To be successful in Himalayan winter you need to be proactive and flexible. The tough conditions on the mountain are making Ralf Dujmovits to rethink about his strategy. “I was hoping to be able to climb this 1000-meter-high (ice fall) section in only one push. But it became so complicated that finding the way through the crevasses and seracs really became a time consuming and scary task. I’m losing my acclimatization. Maybe I have to work my way up camp by camp… that was not really my plan.”
Waiting Game for Poles
On Rupal side, the Polish climbers, Tomek, Marek, Jacek Teler and Pawel Dunaj (with Michal and Michal), reached C-1A at 5500m on December 26th, before the change in weather forced them to retreat to BC. The team is still in Base Camp, “It is the 30th of December now and we all are killing the time in anticipation for some sunshine - recovering from the last outing on the mountain, playing cards, eating loads and hearing whatever stories each of the team members has to share.”
