Cold Race to Nanga Parbat

Winter 2014
As of now, two teams have confirmed their plans to climb Nanga Parbat, this Winter.

The Polish Team:
Independent Polish climbers, Marek Klonowski and Tomek Mackiewicz have attempted Nanga Parbat, thrice, with the slogan of Justice for All. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts on Kinshofer route - Diamir face, they switched to Rupal side, last year. The choice proved to be a promising one, as Tomek managed to gain an altitude of 7400m on Schell route.

This year, ‘Justice for All Expedition’ is returning to Nanga Parbat with a slightly changed formation. The team will be joined by Jacek Teler and Pawel Dunaj. Jacek Teler is a winter altitude climbing old-timer. He was part of the large international expedition that attempted K2 in 2002-03. In winter 2008-09, he along with Jarosław Żurawski, attempted Nanga Parbat from Diamir side.

Justice for All team members was expected to leave for Pakistan on December 1st, whereas the actual climb on Schell route will start on 21st.

Nanga Parbat

The Itailan and German Team:
The Italian Simone Moro can safely be regarded as finest winter climber of this age. Following the death of legendary Polish climbing leaders in 1989, the winter-ascents of 8000m peaks remained frozen for more than 15 years. It was Simone Moro who shook off the inertia by climbing Shishapangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009 and first Karakoram 8000er, Gasherbrum II, in 2011. He has also attempted Broad Peak twice and Nanga Parbat in 2012.

Simone Moro (right) in a frigid high camp on Nanga
courtesy Simone Moro, SOURCE

Simone’s winter partner since Makalu, Denis Urubko, is reluctant to climb Nanga Parbat because of security reasons. The North Face athlete will be accompanied by fellow country-man Emilio Previtali and German David Göttler. David is a photographer and an accomplished mountain guide with four 8000er ascents under his belt. From rock climbing to snowboarding, Emilio is a versatile adventurer. Although his main role on current expedition will be share the story of climb, but he adds, “I know of no climber who goes on a mountain with no desire to go on top. But of course this is a job that takes into account a host of other parameters; we'll see when we get there.”

The team will be arriving in Pakistan after December 21st and will be sharing the route with Poles.