Feb 23, 2012

Aconcagua Once again

Just home after another ascent of Aconcagua (6959m) in the beautiful mountains of Argentina.

I guided a group of 15 pax for Topas Travel. A group of happy and strong people who all had the dream of reaching the top of South America's highest mountain. We were totally 7 people on the summit (12/2 2012) after about 8 hours walking in snow and strong winds. Nice trip.

Next year I have two departures to the mountain. Check http://www.topas.dk/ for more info.
I also got the opportunity to test my new climbing boots from Scarpa.(PHANTOM 6000) Super cool and with a pretty amazing fit. The hike up Aconcagua is not climbing in any way and I look forward to testing them for real - on ice, snow and at high altitude in the soon starting Himalaya season. I'm back in Nepal in about four weeks from now.
Strong and cool client - who had to stop at 6660 m


Killing time -  in my tent in C2









party, food and wine after the ascent -  back in BC

PHANTOM 6000

Feb 21, 2012

Himalayan winter expeditions

Tough conditions for Denis and Simone - The North Face athletes. The game is over on Nanga Parbat ... for now.
Snowfall and a forecast showing no end in the tunnel made Simone Moro and Denis Urubko decided: the expedition is over. Check out a video on Simone's blog (in the dispatch feed section) where the mountaineers explain their decision. http://www.simonemoro.com/

With the Russian team leaving K2 last week, and the Polish leaving Nanga Parbat yesterday, only the mountaineers on Gasherbrum 1 remain. Two teams are hoping to bag the peak's first winter ascent: an international team gunning for a new route and a Polish team working the normal route. 


Once again it is proven that not even for the very best climbers in the world - is it possible to live the dream to do the first ascent. I am sure that this is not the final attempt
Desnis, Simone and Cory under G2 Whinter exp. Photo by: blogs.elcorreo.com