Cold Race to Nanga Parbat

Winter 2014
As of now, two teams have confirmed their plans to climb Nanga Parbat, this Winter.

The Polish Team:
Independent Polish climbers, Marek Klonowski and Tomek Mackiewicz have attempted Nanga Parbat, thrice, with the slogan of Justice for All. After a couple of unsuccessful attempts on Kinshofer route - Diamir face, they switched to Rupal side, last year. The choice proved to be a promising one, as Tomek managed to gain an altitude of 7400m on Schell route.

This year, ‘Justice for All Expedition’ is returning to Nanga Parbat with a slightly changed formation. The team will be joined by Jacek Teler and Pawel Dunaj. Jacek Teler is a winter altitude climbing old-timer. He was part of the large international expedition that attempted K2 in 2002-03. In winter 2008-09, he along with Jarosław Żurawski, attempted Nanga Parbat from Diamir side.

Justice for All team members was expected to leave for Pakistan on December 1st, whereas the actual climb on Schell route will start on 21st.

Nanga Parbat

The Itailan and German Team:
The Italian Simone Moro can safely be regarded as finest winter climber of this age. Following the death of legendary Polish climbing leaders in 1989, the winter-ascents of 8000m peaks remained frozen for more than 15 years. It was Simone Moro who shook off the inertia by climbing Shishapangma in 2005, Makalu in 2009 and first Karakoram 8000er, Gasherbrum II, in 2011. He has also attempted Broad Peak twice and Nanga Parbat in 2012.

Simone Moro (right) in a frigid high camp on Nanga
courtesy Simone Moro, SOURCE

Simone’s winter partner since Makalu, Denis Urubko, is reluctant to climb Nanga Parbat because of security reasons. The North Face athlete will be accompanied by fellow country-man Emilio Previtali and German David Göttler. David is a photographer and an accomplished mountain guide with four 8000er ascents under his belt. From rock climbing to snowboarding, Emilio is a versatile adventurer. Although his main role on current expedition will be share the story of climb, but he adds, “I know of no climber who goes on a mountain with no desire to go on top. But of course this is a job that takes into account a host of other parameters; we'll see when we get there.”

The team will be arriving in Pakistan after December 21st and will be sharing the route with Poles.

R.I.P Mr. Mandela

Great men are rare. Great men who can inspire a whole world is exceptional ..... Mr. Mandela was Unique.

After twenty seven years in prison, in 1990, he was released and led South Africa in a peaceful transition from apartheid to democracy, which earned him the the greatest respect of not only South Africans, but people all over the world. In 1993 Nelson Mandela received the Nobel Peace Prize. The next year he was inaugurated as president of South Africa by a new non-racial Parliament. He served as president for 5 years.

 A charismatic, tolerant, selfless and compassionate man, full of forgiveness, Mr. Mandela led the South African rainbow nation to reconciliation and unity. Madiba, as he is affectionately known, earned respect all over the world as a peacemaker and a great statesman, who cared for other people and inspired them with his wise words.

 

A lesson from Nelson Mandela's wisdom to adventurers, who are confronted with fear on the high mountains, the cold poles, the deep oceans, the warm deserts: “I learned that courage was not the absence of fear, but the triumph over it. The brave man is not he who does not feel afraid, but he who conquers fear.”

South Face of Annapurna 2013

Maybe you think you are doing great things in the mountains ..... and you might think you're pretty good at it ... think Again.

Big news from Annapurna. The South Face is yet climb by two  French alpinists, Yannick Graziani and Stephane Benoist. The French climb took place in almost one week. Having left the ABC on 17th, the climbers reached the summit on October 24th. Surviving such an extended period of time on one of the most perilous walls in the world is a big feat in itself.

 "The pair came down the south face. Stephane suffered frostbite and  the two climbers were evacuated from the moraine to the hospital in Kathmandu" Source Exsplorers web. Amazing achievement!!

Ueli Solo Annapurna

After commercial staff ganged up on him on Everest; speed climber Ueli Steck turned to a mountain void of mountain guides and really, most everyone else.

 

Notorious for its many deaths, avalanche prone slopes and sky-cutting ridge; the peak frequently merely sees the world's top high altitude mountaineers. And on their 14x8000ers bucket list, they usually leave Annapurna for last.

 The Swiss climber solo climbed a new route in alpine style, in round trip time of 28 hours from Advanced BC. He has reportedly completed the challenging Lafaille route, which was attempted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Pierre Beghin in the autumn of 1992.

The Swiss mountaineer took on the killer mountain alone and without fanfare, in a beautiful mix of courage and grace. Only a handful of mountaineers have soloed an 8000 meter peak. Only Ueli has done it twice.

 

 

 23 people have summited Annapurna south on new routes. More than 50% of these climbers have died on Annapurna or other mountains later on.!!!!!

Himalaya Challenge 2013

My latest Himalayan expedition is over - and it is time to look forward for the next adventure.
It´s also time to give back some positive energy, and not at least say THANK YOU to all my amazing sponsors. Without them, it was not possible!

Report from the climb with pictures and info - coming soon

For a start: Here is some images from Shishapangma and Tibet:

 

Himalayan Challenge..

Projektet

Mit næste bjergprojekt er en dobbelt-ekspedition til toppen af verdens 14. og 8. højeste bjerg – Shishapangma på 8.027 meter i Tibet og Manaslu på 8.163meter i Nepal. En ekspedition, som vil finde sted i efteråret 2013. Et projekt, der vil gøre op med gammeldags tankegang og store tunge ekspeditioner.

 Jeg ønsker at bringe bjerget i fokus. Jeg ønsker at tage udfordringen op ved at gøre det hele lidt mere enkelt, ærligt og ikke mindst oprigtigt. Jeg ønsker at bestige disse bjerge ved hjælp af minutiøs planlægning, erfaring, hård træning og ikke mindst ved min ukuelige tro på projektet.

 Mand mod bjerg – ingen ilt-flasker, ingen fix-reb og ingen brug af guider på bjerget!

Jakob Urth high on Lhotse (8516) in Nepal 2012. Photo by JU

 Hvorfor?

Fordi det er den rigtige måde, og fordi jeg har erfaringen til at gøre det. Dette er den ærlige og mest naturlige måde at bestige verdens højeste bjerge på. Den måde, hvorpå kultur, natur og især bjerget belastes mindst.

 Jeg ønsker at bevise, at verdens højeste bjerge kan bestiges med et minimum af setup og størst mulig respekt for bjerget. Dette er enestående i en verden, hvor store kommercielle aktører fjerner eventyret og klatringen ved deres mange guider,kilometer af fix-reb, ilt-masker og mange ton affald.

 

cold night in the tent - Cho Oyu 2010

 

 

Let’s make things a little more simple - Lad os bevare eventyret, udfordringen og ikke mindst bjerget og det skrøbelige miljø i Himalaya. Dette er for mig 100 % eventyr.

 Fakta om bjergene

Shishapangma på 8.027 meter er det ”mindste” af de 14 bjerge i verden, som overstiger de magiske 8000 meter. Bjerget blev første gang besteget i 1964 af en kinesisk ekspedition og først åbnet for verden tilbage i 1978. Shishapangma betyder ”the God of the Grasslands” på tibetansk og opfattes som et helligt bjerg. Dette smukke og isolerede bjerg har haft flere danske forsøg, dog uden at nogen dansker har nået toppen.

Manaslu er en af Himalayas smukkeste 8.000-meter-bjerge og ligger isoleret i det centrale Nepal mellem bjergkæden Ganesh Himal i øst og de smukke Annapurna-bjerge i vest. Manaslu, hvis navn på det lokale skriftsprog betyder "Sjælen" og er med sine 8.163 meter verdens 8. højeste bjerg. Manaslu blev besteget første gang 1954 af en stor japansk ekspedition via nordøst-graten. Dette er også ruten Jakob Urth ønsker at klatre. Manaslu er besteget to gange tidligere af danskere ved brug af ilt og store tunge ekspeditioner.  

Jakob Urth trekking in Nepal

 

Link:
Følg mine udfordringer i tekst og billeder på www.topas.dk  fra den 4/9 Der vil være blog, website og masser af gode skud fra livet i de højeste bjerge på kloden. Husk også at tjekke for opdateringer på Topas’ facebook-site
Jeg kan ligeledes følges "live" via GPS og Google Map.

Presse:
Ønskes yderlige information om ekspeditionen, skal alt henvendelse ske til presseansvarlig journalist Rikke Dyrberg på mail: Dyrbergs@gmail.com eller på telefon: +4529807990
For aviser og anden media, kan der rekvireres pressebilleder samt detaljer for kontakt til Jakob Urth under selve ekspeditionen.


New Sponsors for Himalaya

New partnership with two strong brands!  I am proud now to work with Gouda travel insurance and The Design Furniture house - Bolia.com

Bolia.com represents innovative thinking, new design and a super cool energy - I do see opportunities and similarities in a collaboration.
Check out their furniture on www.bolia.com
# A little bonus info - their CEO is also a capable mountain climber and a pretty cool guy #


Bolia.com
“We have the privilege of
designing furniture for you.
To create something that will be a part of your life. It’s incredibly exciting to think
about all the strange things that will happen in something that we’ve made. Fights, arguments, lovemaking, cake eating and cat napping. So use it and abuse it to your heart’s content. That’s what great design is for. Life.”











Gouda er Danmark og Nordens største rejseforsikringsselskab  - Sikkerhed over alle grænser

”Hjælpen er altid i nærheden

På Gouda Rejseforsikrings døgnbemandede alarmcentral sidder medarbejderne klar til at yde kunderne kompetent og personlig service, uanset hvor i verden der er brug for hjælp. Alarmcentralen har tilknyttet dansk lægekorps og et særligt kriseberedskab. Gouda Rejseforsikring ser det, som sin fornemste opgave at skabe tryghed og yde kunderne sikkerhed ud over alle grænser – døgnet rundt, året rundt og verden rundt”.
Check out their products www.gouda.dk

Heavy training in the Alps - Himalaya next in line

Back in Denmark after three weeks in the French Alps.
Three super weeks of hard physical training and a lot of climbing of the classic Chamonix routes and a few new ones.

Initially I had the task to guide two friends up on the Mont Blanc - A mountain that evokes many memories of my first trips in the mountains and especially the beautiful Chamonix.
cool trip with many experiences and impressions of the two brothers - You are both cool and very well done. ;)

I also climbed some more interesting routes and tested my technical and mental skills
.... Which is important when my next project is altitude climbing in the Himalayas and the the seriousness of gravity
is present!!

I made Aiguille du Chardonnet via two routes in two days. Super climbing and pretty good and stable conditions
The North Buttress and The North-West Couloir where both routes we descended by the normal route.

Deaths on K2 and Broad Peak

The season in Pakistan and on some of the highest mountains has again proved fatal.
The season started hard - with the terrible attack and killing of climbers on Nanga. The otherwise peaceful and friendly Pakistan as all who visited the country can confirm - was changed and turned into a war zone. It makes me sad and my thoughts go´s to those left behind, To the Family and friends and to the local communities who may suffer from this in the years to come.

It is reported that the season this year has been challenging for most expeditions on G2, G1, Nanga, BP and K2. As if something was wrong from the start....

K2 in 2008 Photo by Jakob Urth

The summit was reached on G2 and new route on BP was opened, but the strong Iranian disappeared on the way back from the Peak! 
Several attempts at K2, but all ended around C2 and C3. Again this year, several individuals and teams disappeared - most recently yesterday when two New Zealander (father and son) vanished!!
I'm so sorry and my thoughts are whit there friends and Family.....

Again, young lives are lost .... why? For those who do not climb mountains will never understand.   
K2 and BP info at: http://www.explorersweb.com/everest_k2/news.php?url=marty-and-denali-schmidt-reported-missin_137506126

Back from Caucasus and Elbrus

Just returned from the Caucasus and Mount Elbrus.
I have guided two groups of pretty cool clients to the top of Eroupa - We all got a good experience and sometimes a struggle the last few meters to the top ;) All in all, 27 out of 28 clients reached the summit with me this time
Congratulations to all of you.                      


Young Danish client on Elbrus: Photo by: Jakob Urth

The trip to the Caucasus was also for me, a part of my preparations and training for my next Himalayan expedition. Things are getting ready and soon I can present the project here on my Blog.

As another part of my training to the Himalayas, I am going to Chamonix / mont Blanc in about a week from now. I have to work and train with a couple of Danish and foreign friends. If you are around let me know..... I´m in for some alpine climbing :)

Summit of Elbrus: Photo by Jakob Urth



bad weather on the way to the top. Photo by Jakob Urth



Russian greatness. Photo by Jakob Urth

 

Next stop Elbrus

Next week I am going to the beautiful Caucasus Mountains in Russia. I have to guide two groups of strong clients up Elbrus. (The highest mountain in Europe - 5642m) two walks of 12 days -  where the program is packed with training on the glacier, rope technique and good acclimatization before the summit ascent. Cool... and I am looking forward to meeting a lot of nice people.
Check out the trip here: http://www.topas.dk/pages/turbeskrivelse-rusland-elbrus-bestigning.html  at Topas Travel

This trip is also used as training for my next Himalaya expedition this autumn... ;) More about this later!

Elbrus 5642 m

 


 

Cool new gear from BLIZ EYEWERE

Claus Larsen whit the new TRACKER 

I have just been visiting Future Denmark - the Danish Distributor for BLIZ EYEWERE.
I spent a few hours drinking coffee, reporting on expeditions and new actions coming up. It's always cozy to talk to Claus Larsen - The Danish manager. He gave me some new glasses for testing  and he wanted my opinion on some of the brand new models. Cool stuff....
I got the new RIDER and the brand new TRACKER - which is not yet in the stores.
It seems that the Swedish manufacturer has listened .. :) .. to feedback and now offers even more fit on the glasses and a pretty cool look.
I'm a happy camper :)  and look forward to using them during my training and on the next expeditions.
 Check all the glasses here:   http://www.blizeyewear.com/



The RIDER from BLIZ EYEWERE

Danes on Everest 2.0

Close but no cigar.
The Danish NO 02 climber Bo B. tried to reach the summit of Everest some days ago. With a bit of trouble, he reached C2 and was now ready for the summit ascent. Exhaustion, wind and help to Sherpas who were coming down from the summit - did the outcome - No more power left.
Good preparation, wise choices, experience and good acclimatization is just not always enough to climb a mountain over 8000 meters. You also need luck! Next time Bo .... Next time.

Three other Danes actually summit this seson - All with heavy use of artificial oxygen (02) Sherpas and......Because of the use of artificial oxygen - one might not approve these ascents as true. The use of oxygen makes the mountain smaller and therefore it is just another fake climb.

Back in camp after the summit. Photo by Bo B.

Everest: 14x 8000m speed record

Kim Chang-Ho Before Everest Foto by Ex web

South Korean Kim Chang-Ho summited Everest on May 20 and became the first Korean climber who summited Everest without supplemental oxygen and the first Korean who finished all the 14x 8000m peaks without O2. He did the 14x 8000ers in a time with 7 years, 10 months and six days, reported the Korean Alpine Federation, breaking the previous record of 7 years, 11 months and 14 days set by Polish climber Jerzy Kukuczka.
Fantastic achievement and a huge inspiration to me!!

Danes on Everest

Right now four Danes are fighting there way up Everest. They are spread over 2 - 3 expeditions. This means that one is client in a big international group. (almost like all the other Danish ascents and of course with the use of artificial oxygen) Another proof - that Everest is apparently for all - with or without experience. A proof of what???
The other three "share" another expedition but do not have the same plan of the ascent. Again two new climbers who want to climb Everest - which they probably do! They do not have much experience, but with a huge setup there will be safe for the trip up and down.

The strong Dane Bo Belvedere. Photo by Bo B.

The last Dane trying on Everest this year is an "old legend". He has had two previous attempts - both from the south side. This year it is from the north and without the use of artificial oxygen and only with BC support. Amazing - again a sincere attempt to cilmb Everest the hard and right way. If anyone can climb Everest without oxygen - it is Bo Belvedere. He has several 8000m climbs, new climbs and strong alpine climbs over many years. I believe in him and wish him a safe climb up and down. Be safe up there.

Everest from North - Photo by Bo Belvedere

Alexey Bolotov found dead and the same is Namgyal Sherpa

Alexey Bolotov have died on Everest! Yesterday came the sad news that one of the largest and most respected mountain climbers found dead.
Bolotov is behind many major ascents over the last many years. The 50-year-old Russian has shown that technical routes at high altitudes - are still possible in a world filled with commercial and boring expeditions .... to mountains and routes that are climbed 1,000 times. Like all the s... that are going on right now Everest. R.I.P
Precise details about the unfortunate incident still remain vague but body of the climber has been recovered and moved to Kathmandu. Apparently the incident happened before the start of new route attempt.

The Sherpa. Namgyal Sherpa reportedly has died at 8300 meters on the North side on Friday. There are few details right now on cause of death but it is confirmed and his family has been notified.
Namgyal, 35, was a mainstay in the Sherpa and climbing community with 7 summits but also one of the leaders in the Climb for Peace and Extreme Everest expeditions, a clean up climb. He was known for his camera and filming skills. He will be missed. I was lucky enough to meet and talk with him during a previous expedition.
My condolences to his family and friends. This is the 6^th death this season, four being Sherpa. R.I.P

Not all is bad - Russian on Lhotse
Alex Borodenkov, Viktor Koval and Sergey Kondrashkin arrived at BC on 19th April and remained busy in acclimatization and setting up higher camps till 8th May. Then they went down to green-zone for some rest before summit push. The trio returned to BC on 13th May. Although weather wasn't ideal but they continued to C2 on same day.
Viktor Koval and Sergey Kondrashkin reached the summit of Lhotse at 1300Hrs local time, while Alex Borodenkov had to turn back slightly short of the top. They are back in C4 (7800m) now. The team has been working independently on the mountain, without guides and porters. The right way!!

Top quality from Suunto

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I thought that my Ambit HR was the best you could get - I actually still think that, but wiht the new Ambit2 model from suunto I really have to rethink that. It is so cool and I can´t wait for a update from my friends at freesports.dk - these guys are experts :)
check out the new Ambit2 and all other models from Suunto on www.freesports.dk 
 

Photo exhibition by Jakob Urth

I've just started a new photo exhibition in the center of Copenhagen.
A collection of photographs from a world far from the one we usually know. Pictures that describes moments and atmosphere.
The exhibition is open from 15/4 to 17/5 2013
Dolores Kaffebar,  Frederiksborggade 18, 1360 København K - Tlf: 33 15 15 22

 

Another climb in Nepal - Ama Dablam BC and Island Peak

Trekking in Solo Khumbu - photo. JU

Just got back from another trip and climb in the Himalayas. This time I was guide on a fantastic trip to Ama Dablam BC and to the summit of Island Peak (6189m) Indescribable beautiful scenery and a very exciting climb of one of the "classics" in Himalaya.
All of this together with a strong, fun and exciting group of Danish and Norwegian guests. Cool and fun trip ... :)



Ama Dablam on the way to Island Peak -Photo by Jakob Urth

  

TNF Duffel.....Don´t go without

 

 

 









Sad sad news.....

After another fantastic achievement by the strong Polish team - appears the news about two missing climbers....You all have my deepest sympathy. Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski are missing on there way back from the summit."On March 5th, 2013, Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek and Tomasz Kowalski bagged the first Winter Broad Peak (8047m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan. They summited between 17h30 to 18h00 local time.
After the summit Artur Małek and Adam Bielecki went down to Camp 4 at an altitude of 7400m, while Tomasz Kowalski and Maciej Berbeka bivouacked (without a tent) on the pass at 7900m. Maciej started going down with Tomasz staying at the bivouac. On March 6th Tomasz Kowalski (27) and Maciej Berbeka (58) were officially declared missing"

The first Winter Broad Peak summit team.
courtesy FTP / Polish Himalayas

Today (9/3) Krzysztof Wielicki, Artur Małek, Adam Bielecki and all three HAPs, Shaheen Baig, Amin Ullah and Karim Hayyat, along with other staff of Base Camp started trekking through Baltoro Glacier. Expedition is over," reported Jan Komorowski, an university friend of Tomasz Kowalski.
Krzysztof Wielicki, Manager of the Polish Broad Peak team on the mountain, have issued the following statement: "Having regard to all the circumstances, the identified conditions, my experience and the history of Himalayan mountaineering, as well as knowledge of high altitude physiology and medicine, and even after additional consultations with doctors and co-organized expeditions in Poland, we must conclude that Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski are dead."
                

"Given the time that has elapsed since the last contact, the height at which it happened, the state in which they already were, the current appalling weather conditions and all the other factors I have decided to end the expedition."

"We pack the base and began our descent down. The march through Baltoro Glacier will take about 5 days. Back to Poland occurs around March 20."

First Winter SUMMIT on Broad Peak

Polish Winter Kings.
They did it! Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Artur Małek, Tomasz Kowalski bagged the first Winter Broad Peak.

"Summit captured between 17.30 to 18.00 local time. All four climbers of the summit team made the First Winter ascent of Broad Peak 8047m," reported Artur Hajzer, Leader of the Polish Himalayan Winter 2010 - 2015. http://polishwinterhimalaism.pl/pages/posts/winter-expedition-of-polish-mountaineering-association-to-broad-peak---topo-of-the-route-to-the-summit-609.php

"Adam Bielecki made the summit of Broad Peak [today, 2013.03.05] and it is his third Pakistani 8000er within the space of one year, two of which are First Winter Ascents; Gash I [FWA] on 2012.03.09, K2 on 2012.07.31, Broad Peak [FWA] on 2013.03.05."

"Maciej Berbeka made the summit of Broad Peak [today, 2013.03.05] and it is his third First Winter Ascent; Manaslu [FWA] on 1984.01.12 with Ryszard Gajewski, Cho Oyu [FWA] on 1985.02.12 with Maciej Pawlikowski, and now Broad Peak [FWA] on 2013.03.05."
 

History of Everest - in winter

Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy celebrating their summit.
Image by Bogdan Jankowski

 33-years ago on February 17th, 1980, Everest was summited for the first time in Winter. This was also the first winter summit of any of the 8000 meter peaks. Two climbers of a Polish team, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy topped out at 7am.

On EverestIn November 1977 the Polish team leader, Andrzej Zawada, flew to Kathmandu to get permission from Nepal to climb in winter. He got a permit to climb from December 1st, 1979 to the end of February 1980. To have such a short time on the mountain Zawada said was "actually insane". But on the other hand he didn't want to opt out as this would be the first time permission was granted to climb Everest in winter      
On December 20, 1979 all their luggage was in Nepal and on January 4th they made base camp with all members of the expedition and all the luggage in place. The next day the Polish team started to negotiate the Ice Fall.

The cold, the ice walls, strong winds, frostbite and injuries hampered the team's progress. One member was blown off his feet and fell 20 meters. Conditions frightened everyone, said Zawada at one stage. Most climbers retreated.

On February 15th a first attempt to the summit was made, but they turned around at 8350 meters. In the morning of 16 February, the last summit push was made from Camp 3. Krzysztof Wielicki said, "I saw anxiety, fear, sadness in the eyes of Zawady." Wielicki and Leszek Cichy summited at 7 am on February 17th, 1980.

They started on the Ice Fall on January 5th.
Image by Stanisław Jaworski

This remains as one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering history - I am humble and respectful of their courage.
Their story became my passion and I clearly remember the first time I read their stories ... for more than 20 years ago!!

Nanga Parbat winter quest is over

Again, it appears like it does succeed for a winter ascent on Nanga. Winter and 8000m climbing is a big thing right now - there is still adventure for those who dare and can keep out the cold..

Image by Daniele Nardi/Elisabeth Revol - on Nanga

Check out the pics and debrief on the climber's blog. The two would try a direct push for summit from camp 2 but the extreme cold (-48 ° C plus windchill) proved too much
http://www.danielenardi.org/?lang=en