History of Everest - in winter

Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy celebrating their summit.
Image by Bogdan Jankowski

 33-years ago on February 17th, 1980, Everest was summited for the first time in Winter. This was also the first winter summit of any of the 8000 meter peaks. Two climbers of a Polish team, Krzysztof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy topped out at 7am.

On EverestIn November 1977 the Polish team leader, Andrzej Zawada, flew to Kathmandu to get permission from Nepal to climb in winter. He got a permit to climb from December 1st, 1979 to the end of February 1980. To have such a short time on the mountain Zawada said was "actually insane". But on the other hand he didn't want to opt out as this would be the first time permission was granted to climb Everest in winter      
On December 20, 1979 all their luggage was in Nepal and on January 4th they made base camp with all members of the expedition and all the luggage in place. The next day the Polish team started to negotiate the Ice Fall.

The cold, the ice walls, strong winds, frostbite and injuries hampered the team's progress. One member was blown off his feet and fell 20 meters. Conditions frightened everyone, said Zawada at one stage. Most climbers retreated.

On February 15th a first attempt to the summit was made, but they turned around at 8350 meters. In the morning of 16 February, the last summit push was made from Camp 3. Krzysztof Wielicki said, "I saw anxiety, fear, sadness in the eyes of Zawady." Wielicki and Leszek Cichy summited at 7 am on February 17th, 1980.

They started on the Ice Fall on January 5th.
Image by Stanisław Jaworski

This remains as one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering history - I am humble and respectful of their courage.
Their story became my passion and I clearly remember the first time I read their stories ... for more than 20 years ago!!