Summit of Ama Dablam

Back in civilization and ready for a little update from my Ama Dablam climb.

Super cool and super exposed ... ... These are the two first words that pop up in my head. Ama Dablam was everything I had hoped she would be and must more.

I had wanted and planned an Alpine climb with my partner, but it was not quite like that. Long story, but he were trapped in KTM due to bad weather - like 500 others.  

I was super acclimatized from my three weeks of trekking - so no time to lose in BC

I arrived at BC on 14/11 and went to C1 on 15/11. Nice trip which only becomes more and more steep just before the camp. C1 is located on a mountain ridge and is the last "safe" point before the start of the climbing and the entrance to the world of rock, snow and ice .... And a world of insane exposure.
I stay two days in C1 and climb on 17/11 to C2 - which I continue from approx. at. 22 and climbs toward the summit ... .. It becomes a long and bloody cold night. I feelt strong and confident; actually enjoy climbing even though I am trying not to freeze finger and ass of while I was fighting my own fear of not falling into the void and… death!

Exposed, exposed, exposed ... ... ... ... ... ...
I reach the summit at about. 06:35 on 18/11, Happy but tired and begins the descent after approx. 30 min( wind and clouds had started to close the mountain) and I hope to reach BC on the same day.  BC at 18:50….. (more pictures soon)

 

Foto by: Charlotte Lycett Green

Trekking in the high Mountains

Everest BC and three high passes.

The 9-Nov, I sent a team of super trekkers home towards Denmark, after yet another fantastic trip in the Himalayan Mountains.

I feel both fortunate and privileged to be allowed to guide a group of happy and exciting people around the heart of the Khumbu - Everest valley, and thereby show them what makes me travel here again and again..We had some challenges along the way in terms of disease - Khumbu cough, which led some to have good and bad days….Well it is not easy to be a trekker ;) I feel however that is nothing compared to the many and great days we had on the trek. Three fantastic passes, where especially the last-Renjo pass appear as something unique. We had on all the passes and peak sunshine and great weather ... believe me, it is not always like that.

All fotos are taken by me on the trip. Check www.topas.dk for more info and date for the next departure in spring 2012.

                                                                                                              

Polar Activity

Right now on Antarctica unfold one of the Biggest drama in many years. Expeditions are struggling for survival and to achieve the goal. To reach the South Pole!

Today, everyone on an expedition have a  satellite phones and can send updates within a few minutes .... Good for safety but bad for the real adventure .. I think!

South pole..no, but from one of my Greenland Exp over the Icecap. Photo: Jakob Urth

Nearly 100 years ago ... Today ... was a completely different drama going on!  On 14 December 1911, Amundsen and his men reach the South Pole. They were in a race against Scott and his expedition of men, horses and other modern "equipment"

Antarctica Routes

As everyone is probably aware that Amundsen was first to reach the Pole and to go home and tell ....... Scott never returned. Today it has become "big business" to make expeditions to the poles. In a year like this where the legend of them all (Amundsen)  almost can be felt on the ice ..... Only gives extra courage to new polar adventures. One day I will be one of them!

Check out some of these links: http://www.explorersweb.com/polar/